Fishy

We hired a car and driver for the day to take us on a day trip to Essaouira. Brahim taught us several Arabic phrases as we drove. Including yellah, sort of a “let’s go/move it!” and Waha. Waha means "yes" or "OK". What does it say that while the first word we learned when we arrived was la, or "no," it took us six months to learn the word for yes?

Not really waiting to hear if we were interested, Brahim pulled the car to the side of the road at an women’s cooperative that produces Argan oil. The Argan tree is native to the Essaouiran environs, and its oil, at about $175 per gallon wholesale, is reportedly the most expensive liquid in the world. The cooperative is run by divorced women from the area, and they make the oil entirely by hand. The tree bears a tough, nutty fruit, which is harvested by goats, which climb into the trees to eat it. Locals will stand on the side of the road and flag down tourists in the effort to gain a few dihrams from a photographer catching the sight of the horned beasts clambering up the branches with the dexterity of, well, kids. After passing through the digestive tracts of the goats, the Argan seeds are processed by the women by hand. As we watch them grind the seeds between flat round stones, we can’t help but think this would be a good way to make peanut butter. Of course, the tour ends in a small shop, where a multi-lingual woman explains how Argan oil, aside from being a tasty dipping treat, can cure virtually any ailment from high cholesterol to diabetes. Two afflictions the Dowe-Sandes have covered - we’ll see what happens as we consume a half a liter!
(Vlad took these pictures, and we'll post them soon.)





On our first trip to Essaouira, we’d discovered the delicate inlaid boxes of Thuya wood (a variety of juniper). We’ve been wanting a couple of pieces, but the costs are double in Marrakech, so we’d waited for a return trip to the coast to make some purchases. Before we can get to the wood we’re in need of fish – something that Essauoira’s fishermen provide in spades. Vlad takes a proprietary interest, as if nine years living in New Orleans makes him an expert. The rest of us indulge him as he picks out our meal and bargains over the price until we pay little more than double the going rate. Indulging Vlad becomes the order of the day, and we watch him try on attire that he’s thinking of bringing back to LA. Vlad and Stephanie buy enough Thuya boxes to keep the local merchants in mint tea for years. If they don’t give you a smart looking box on their return, then they really must not like you.